I am often asked what is the best time to visit Bibury in the North Cotswolds and then give a convoluted answer covering all times of the year. Secretly for me it is hard to beat a crisp cold day in Winter when you can often discover a Cotswold ‘secret’ to yourself, explore and take photographs without too many other tourists around. Wrap up warm, take a tour in a luxury vehicle with Cotswolds Discovery Tours, and explore an area, that in the Summer, due to the popularity of The Cotswolds, can be busy at times. It was in early 2024 that I did this and visited one of my favourite villages in the entire Cotswolds. I am not alone in considering this an incredibly special village but more on that later. With 800 square miles of outstanding beauty to cover it’s always tricky to pick a favourite but let me explain.
When you arrive in Bibury it is normally via a series of quiet country roads that slowly and gently drop down into a valley containing the River Coln, a tributary of the Thames, but many will not even realise that they will have travelled through the high ground where in 1621 King Charles II accompanied by his mistress Nell Gwyn regularly visited a racecourse between Burford and Bibury. During Bibury race week the inns all around this area were full of high society and their pleasure-loving King. It is believed that the Monarch himself stayed at Bibury Court, a fine Grade I listed Jacobean country house, once a magnificent hotel but now a private residence owned by the star designer Marc Newson and his wife, fashion stylist Charlotte Stockdale. Another regular royal visitor to the Bibury races was King George IV who also visited the nearby Sherborne estate. A visit to the hunting lodge nearby can be arranged and is well worth a visit. Although long gone and unused now, up until the 1920’s there was still some evidence of the racecourse and the Bibury club. The Cocklebarrow races still take place once a year within sight of the lodge, so the history of racing is still alive in this historic area where Kings enjoyed their recreation. This is truly an area steeped in royal English history even before you arrive in Bibury proper.
The Bibury duck race takes place on Boxing Day and crowds are drawn to the spectacle
Once you arrive you may experience a different race entirely. The Bibury duck race is one of those eccentric traditions that attracts many and is live-streamed around the world. Although it takes place on Boxing Day so there were no signs of the little yellow ducks when I arrived or the crowds that are drawn to the odd spectacle.
I first checked into the Swan Hotel for the lunch menu and to book a table. Another frequent question I hear is where can I get an afternoon cream tea in the Cotswolds or where can I stay in the Cotswolds. The choice is endless and there are places to suit all budgets. The Swan Hotel has an enchanting riverside location and at this time of the year I was not disappointed to see a roaring log fire. There are seasonal menus here and rarely will you be at a loss to find something tasty to eat and drink. The freshly baked scones for afternoon tea are not to be missed!
I then walked along ‘The Street’ which is alongside the river Coln, where you will often see freshwater trout, until I arrived at the little wooden bridge and footpath that takes you across the river into the quaintly named Awkward Hill. It is here you will discover Arlington Row. This is described as arguably the prettiest street in all of England. Sometimes these comments have no substance but William Morris a revolutionary writer, artist and conservationist who founded the Arts and crafts Movement in the 19th century described Bibury as ‘the most beautiful village in England’. He lived in nearby Kelmscott Manor which again is well worth a visit and is open to the public.
Arlington Row was one of the locations used in the fantasy film ‘Stardust’ which starred Michelle Pfiefer and Robert De Niro
Arlington Row is now owned by the National trust. A row of tenanted 17th century weavers’ cottages around a water meadow, which sum up the industrial past of this area succinctly. Originally the cottages were a wool store built in the 14th century, around 1380, and are now Grade I listed buildings. Arlington Row was one of the locations used in the fantasy film ‘Stardust’ which starred Michelle Pfiefer and Robert De Niro. When I arrived, I was the only person present to view this delightful area. A rare thing indeed to be alone in such a popular area for visitors but if you choose wisely a local guide can always find the best time for you to visit. Being local I love to find these quiet moments for my guests and clients, which I strongly believe is something bigger tour operators will not know when to visit especially those from outside the area, who do not have the local knowledge. When you have a passion for an area it is a fabulous gift to be able to share it.
When you cross the river, you move into the village of Ablington rather than Bibury and here you get an unobstructed view of Rack Island where the wool was hung on racks to dry after being washed in Arlington Row, in the 14th century. This is a boggy water meadow and with Arlington Row in the background it makes one of the most picturesque views you will discover in the North Cotswolds. Time for a selfie!
I retraced my steps back across the river and walked on to St Marys Church. Here you can see a Saxon gravestone, 12th century glass windows and Norman doorway arches. Described locally as a gem among Cotswolds churches it is often missed by visitors but when its history predates the Norman conquest to me a visit is essential. At the rear of the church, you can glimpse Bibury Court which I mentioned earlier. There is a quaint Primary school nearby and it was the excited noises of young children playing which was the only sound in this very peaceful area, which quickly disappeared once break time finished.
This really could be the most beautiful village in England
I wandered up to Packhorse Lane and absorbed the area around me. It was incredibly difficult to disagree with William Morris. This really could be the most beautiful village in England.
Walking back down the hill I was excited to see the old William Morris tearoom was being renovated and look forward to taking clients here for tea and cake in the future. I walked across the Coln River again up Awkward Hill and along onto the path named Hawkers Hill where you can see all of Rack Island and after passing the trout farm of Bibury which again has exciting developments in progress and is open to the public, I returned to The Swan to enjoy that log fire and a delightful lunch. In warmer weather you can of course sit next to the river in the hotels private garden.
For me, a quiet winters day among the 17th century honey coloured stone buildings of Bibury is a perfect way to spend a few hours when in the Cotswolds and is full of little delights and discoveries. I would highly recommend a visit to this village in the North Cotswolds at any time. Let me take you on a tour of the area in the luxury of my air-conditioned Mercedes V Class.
Put simply I can offer luxury with a local touch. Contact us today to arrange your Cotswolds Discovery Tour
